There have been great strides in global polio eradication, due in no small part to Rotary International.
But there’s still work to be done.
Kenya Toddler Is First Polio Infection in 20 Years
Published: February 25, 2009
NAIROBI, Kenya (AP) -- Kenya announced its first polio infection in 20 years on Wednesday, after a 4-year-old girl was diagnosed with the disease along the country's remote border with Sudan.
''In a country free of polio, when you make a diagnosis of one case of polio the definition is an outbreak,'' said Dr. David Okello, country representative of the World Health Organization. For every child paralyzed by polio, there are about 200 other asymptomatic cases who can spread the disease to others.
Okello said they were investigating a second case in Lokichoggio, 900 kilometers (560 miles) north of the capital city of Nairobi, where an infant had shown symptoms of the disease.
''Really we are not sure, there may be other cases,'' said Okello.
Polio is an infectious disease that mainly strikes children under five. It is spread primarily by the feces of an infected person getting into the food chain. It causes paralysis and can be fatal.
In 2006, two refugees escaping the war in Somalia were diagnosed with the disease at the Dadaab refugee camp at Kenya's eastern border with Somalia. That outbreak was contained before it spread.
Okello said the disease may have spread from south Sudan, where a polio outbreak occurred in early January.
He said many Kenyan children were not immunized due to postelection violence in 2008, which left more than 1,000 people dead and 600,000 people displaced from their homes. Many have still not returned home.
Okello said coverage of the immunization campaign was 100 percent before the violence but has dropped to 60 percent.
He said in the next 10 days health officials will conduct immediate vaccination of Lokichoggio and surrounding areas to prevent the spread of the disease and then a synchronized vaccination campaign involving Sudan, Ethiopia and Uganda.
Global efforts to eradicate polio have decreased cases by 99 percent since 1988. Last year, it was only endemic in four countries: Afghanistan, India, Nigeria and Pakistan. But those countries have the potential to re-infect anywhere in the world.
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If you'd like to help eradicate polio, click here.
February 26, 2009
February 22, 2009
Big five? Big deal.
I shot some video during our amazing safari through the Great Rift Valley.
We did five days, driving around in our pop-top van to Lake Nakuru, Lake Naivasha and the Masai Mara National Reserve. For two of those days, our sidekick Ben joined us.
You can also find more pictures from our travels in my Picasa web album.
East Africa’s Asian Invasion
No, this is not another story about how the Chinese are getting all the construction contracts here (which they are). This is a story about Antoinette Nguyen, friend extraordinaire, who came from Atlanta to visit me for 3 weeks. I was excited to “re-see” Kenya and Tanzania through her eyes.
She has her own blog if you care to read her perspective on the trip (when she eventually updates it). For now, here is what I “re-saw” during our very own East African Asian Invasion...
Ant realized her high school physics lessons stuck long enough to help David with his homework.
And I realized that my hair continues to be a spectacle for so many Africans.
Korean food is ridiculously delicious, no matter where you have it.
When in Zanzibar, it’s sometimes best to keep picture-taking to a minimum. We opted to enjoy paradise over documenting it… except for this time.
She has her own blog if you care to read her perspective on the trip (when she eventually updates it). For now, here is what I “re-saw” during our very own East African Asian Invasion...
Helping out at the Emmanuel Boys Center makes you realize so much.
Ant realized her high school physics lessons stuck long enough to help David with his homework.
And I realized that my hair continues to be a spectacle for so many Africans.
If you don't smile like an idiot when you feed a giraffe, you’re not human.
Korean food is ridiculously delicious, no matter where you have it.
A safari isn’t complete without hundreds of pictures of us pointing at animals.
There is an inordinate amount of Obama across this land.
When in Zanzibar, it’s sometimes best to keep picture-taking to a minimum. We opted to enjoy paradise over documenting it… except for this time.January 26, 2009
From Hometown to Homeland
Inside a special souvenir edition of The Standard Sunday newspaper ("37-pages on New American President"), under the headline, "Hours and there will be a Black Man in White House..." was one sentence that summed it all up: "Kenyans are watching with glowing faces and hearts throbbing with joy and ecstasy for although Obama will be the American President, he acknowledges and pays homage to our country as the land of his father."
As I'm sure was the case in the U.S., hardly one sentence was written without some mention of how "historic," "unprecedented," "significant," or "awesome" the inauguration would be. And the front pages leading up to January 20 reflected the joy and ecstasy of Kenyans.
The inauguration festivities weren't as wild as those for election night. (President Kibaki declared the following day a public holiday.) But it was, nonetheless, reason to celebrate as thousands went straight from work into bars.
Most national networks plugged in to CNN's coverage, occassionally breaking in to update viewers on what Obama's Kenyan relatives - those who flew to DC and those who remained in Kogelo - were doing. Kogelo, "the small village where [Obama's] father was born," has seen a boon in tourism since their native son's rise to the global stage. And, according to a local newspaper, "it is difficult to suppress the assumption that the 'development' would now spread to other areas of Kenya."
Yikes.
As I'm sure was the case in the U.S., hardly one sentence was written without some mention of how "historic," "unprecedented," "significant," or "awesome" the inauguration would be. And the front pages leading up to January 20 reflected the joy and ecstasy of Kenyans.
The inauguration festivities weren't as wild as those for election night. (President Kibaki declared the following day a public holiday.) But it was, nonetheless, reason to celebrate as thousands went straight from work into bars.
Most national networks plugged in to CNN's coverage, occassionally breaking in to update viewers on what Obama's Kenyan relatives - those who flew to DC and those who remained in Kogelo - were doing. Kogelo, "the small village where [Obama's] father was born," has seen a boon in tourism since their native son's rise to the global stage. And, according to a local newspaper, "it is difficult to suppress the assumption that the 'development' would now spread to other areas of Kenya."
Yikes.
January 6, 2009
Kenya Dig It?
On New Year's Day, I went with a friend to her extended family's home in the heart of Maasai land, a dot in the vast bush at the Tanzania/Kenya border. The small village of about 50 people gathered at the house to celebrate. It was the single greatest concentration of beaded necklaces and stretched earlobes I've ever witnessed in person.
My classes started this week. From what I can tell so far, Catholic University of Eastern Africa is going to be the gourmet filet mignon to University of Dar es Salaam's gas station beef jerky*.
I set out to be a participant, not an observer. I'm finally realizing that here.
*One thing that Dar es Salaam has that Nairobi does not, however, is this establishment, boasting Chicago's finest.
My classes started this week. From what I can tell so far, Catholic University of Eastern Africa is going to be the gourmet filet mignon to University of Dar es Salaam's gas station beef jerky*.
- CUEA: Lecturers show up to scheduled class time and place. UDSM: No schedule. No lecturers. Try next week. (Oh, that course has been cancelled.)
- CUEA: Lecturers provide each student a packet of reading materials. UDSM: Lecturers provide a single copy to a student to make copies and distribute for the other 100+ students in the class.
- CUEA: Second semester ends in April. UDSM: Second semester, due to the strike delay, begins in April.
- CUEA: One person per desk. UDSM: Two people per chair.
- CUEA: Regular toilets. UDSM: Squat toilets. Both: BYOTP.
I set out to be a participant, not an observer. I'm finally realizing that here.
*One thing that Dar es Salaam has that Nairobi does not, however, is this establishment, boasting Chicago's finest.
December 30, 2008
Christmas in Kenya
It all started with a heated and chaotic negotiation with a Maasai goat herder. (You know, how most Christmas stories start.) After settling on a price, we tied up two fat white male goats, subsequently named Howard and Tom Bin Laden, and loaded them into the trunk of Daniel's yellow Toyota Scion.
Tom and Howard had one night to fill their bellies with a bit more grass at the Boys Center, just enough time for Daniel to sharpen the knives. The slaughter began on Christmas afternoon. With a quick swipe at the throat, Howard passed into goat heaven with surprising stillness. Two hours and several buckets of blood, fat and skin later: "Goat guts roasting on an open fire..."
Was it gory? Sure. Did it taste funny? A bit. Would you do it again? Hell yes.
The rest of the day was spent eating every part of the goat imaginable. A few spontaneous dance parties erupted, courtesy of the boys' impressive moves and Lil' Wayne's not-so-impressive music. Noticeably absent were Christmas carols, cold weather, and movies about Red Ryder carbine-action 200-shot range model air rifles. (You'll shoot your eye out!)
You can find (bloodless) pictures here from my time in Nairobi so far.
Spending the holidays in Africa has been a refreshing alternative to the commercially crazed chaos of the U.S. The more we have, the more we need (or think we need). But here, millions are content with just a full stomach. I'm sure that sounds trite. I probably read something to that effect before I came here. But, it's impossible to appreciate such a basic way of life without seeing it first hand. When you have so little, the little you have is everything. Family, food, education and health. And if you've got that, you're genuinely happy.
Hope everyone is enjoying their holidays, wherever you are.
Tom and Howard had one night to fill their bellies with a bit more grass at the Boys Center, just enough time for Daniel to sharpen the knives. The slaughter began on Christmas afternoon. With a quick swipe at the throat, Howard passed into goat heaven with surprising stillness. Two hours and several buckets of blood, fat and skin later: "Goat guts roasting on an open fire..."
Was it gory? Sure. Did it taste funny? A bit. Would you do it again? Hell yes.
The rest of the day was spent eating every part of the goat imaginable. A few spontaneous dance parties erupted, courtesy of the boys' impressive moves and Lil' Wayne's not-so-impressive music. Noticeably absent were Christmas carols, cold weather, and movies about Red Ryder carbine-action 200-shot range model air rifles. (You'll shoot your eye out!)
You can find (bloodless) pictures here from my time in Nairobi so far.
Spending the holidays in Africa has been a refreshing alternative to the commercially crazed chaos of the U.S. The more we have, the more we need (or think we need). But here, millions are content with just a full stomach. I'm sure that sounds trite. I probably read something to that effect before I came here. But, it's impossible to appreciate such a basic way of life without seeing it first hand. When you have so little, the little you have is everything. Family, food, education and health. And if you've got that, you're genuinely happy.
Hope everyone is enjoying their holidays, wherever you are.
December 19, 2008
The girl who cried “Zanzibar”
Season’s greetings from Nairobi, Kenya! It’s the season of family and friendship; the season of charity and renewal; and the season of ditching your Zanzibar relocation plans.
Let me back up.
I arrived in Nairobi last week to volunteer at the Emmanuel Boys Center over the holidays. But upon arriving, Daniel Nduati, a Rotarian who founded the center, told me about a new center he was opening.
The Emmanuel Youth Empowerment Center is a drop-in center as opposed to the Boys Center, which is a residential home. EYEC is located in Dagoretti, an area of Nairobi known for its butcher shops. Unfortunately, it’s also gaining notoriety as a place teeming with orphaned youth whose parents have died of HIV/AIDS.
The mission of the center is to equip street youth (boys and girls) with the skills necessary to gain employment and rise above the violent criminal and sexual activity that plagues millions of Nairobi’s youth. EYEC will provide more than 200 youth with computer training, literacy programs, workshops and counseling on HIV/AIDS, drug rehabilitation, a healthy lunch five days a week, and more.
After seeing Daniel’s vision for the youth of Nairobi, I’ve decided to stay here for the duration of my scholarship term. My role is to produce a promotional video for the center. It’s my hope that potential donors will see the video and feel compelled to give their time and/or money.
The center is still in the process of being repaired and renovated. But it’s getting done quickly thanks to the overwhelming support and enthusiasm of the Dagoretti youth. They’ve come out in droves every morning to help paint and clean. The center will be fully operational by January.
In addition to my work at the center, I’ll be attending classes at Catholic University of Eastern Africa. (Private school = no student strikes.)
In other news…
They say Christmas just isn’t Christmas in Kenya without slaughtering a goat. And making soup with its head. And drinking its blood. I wish I was joking. A few of my friends from Dar es Salaam will be joining me for what will be undoubtedly be an unforgettable Christmas with the boys from the rescue center.
(Stay tuned for my next blog post, which will announce my move to Uganda. Kidding... I hope.)
Let me back up.
I arrived in Nairobi last week to volunteer at the Emmanuel Boys Center over the holidays. But upon arriving, Daniel Nduati, a Rotarian who founded the center, told me about a new center he was opening.
The Emmanuel Youth Empowerment Center is a drop-in center as opposed to the Boys Center, which is a residential home. EYEC is located in Dagoretti, an area of Nairobi known for its butcher shops. Unfortunately, it’s also gaining notoriety as a place teeming with orphaned youth whose parents have died of HIV/AIDS.
The mission of the center is to equip street youth (boys and girls) with the skills necessary to gain employment and rise above the violent criminal and sexual activity that plagues millions of Nairobi’s youth. EYEC will provide more than 200 youth with computer training, literacy programs, workshops and counseling on HIV/AIDS, drug rehabilitation, a healthy lunch five days a week, and more.
After seeing Daniel’s vision for the youth of Nairobi, I’ve decided to stay here for the duration of my scholarship term. My role is to produce a promotional video for the center. It’s my hope that potential donors will see the video and feel compelled to give their time and/or money.
The center is still in the process of being repaired and renovated. But it’s getting done quickly thanks to the overwhelming support and enthusiasm of the Dagoretti youth. They’ve come out in droves every morning to help paint and clean. The center will be fully operational by January.
In addition to my work at the center, I’ll be attending classes at Catholic University of Eastern Africa. (Private school = no student strikes.)
In other news…
They say Christmas just isn’t Christmas in Kenya without slaughtering a goat. And making soup with its head. And drinking its blood. I wish I was joking. A few of my friends from Dar es Salaam will be joining me for what will be undoubtedly be an unforgettable Christmas with the boys from the rescue center.
(Stay tuned for my next blog post, which will announce my move to Uganda. Kidding... I hope.)
December 3, 2008
The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men
Before I left for Africa, a Rotarian told me something I will never forget: “With the scholarship money you’ve been awarded, Rotary could’ve built five water wells in Haiti. Prove that you’re worth five water wells.”
I still have a lot to do before I can come close to proving that. But one place that is not worthy of receiving the generous scholarship money is the University of Dar es Salaam. The student strike will end, I know, but the blatant neglect the university has shown for its students, foreign or otherwise, will not. So after much soul searching, brainstorming, and Lonely Planet-ing, I have decided to move to Zanzibar for the remainder of my scholarship term.
Starting in January, I will be taking Kiswahili language courses at the State University of Zanzibar in Stone Town. I went this weekend to check it out and decided it was the right choice. Zanzibar is the birthplace of Kiswahili. And the language institute is world-renown. It’s not what I set out to do but if I’ve learned nothing else here, it’s to be flexible. I don’t think it’s fair to complain about moving to Zanzibar, either. White sand beaches, ancient architecture, rich culture, island life… The financial crisis and snow plows seem a world away.
Until then, I will be volunteering in Nairobi, Kenya. The director of the Emmanuel Rescue Center asked me to join him in implementing some new programs, organizing a Christmas outing, and setting up scholarships for the boys.
My original plan:
1. Take graduate level courses in sociology at the University of Dar es Salaam
2. Produce a documentary about a project run by a Rotary club in Tanzania
3. Do freelance work for Voice of America
My current plan:
1. Take introductory level courses in Kiswahili at the State University of Zanzibar
2. Produce a promotional video for the Emmanuel Rescue Center in Kenya
3. Hope I’ll have any work when I return to Chicago.
I still have a lot to do before I can come close to proving that. But one place that is not worthy of receiving the generous scholarship money is the University of Dar es Salaam. The student strike will end, I know, but the blatant neglect the university has shown for its students, foreign or otherwise, will not. So after much soul searching, brainstorming, and Lonely Planet-ing, I have decided to move to Zanzibar for the remainder of my scholarship term.
Starting in January, I will be taking Kiswahili language courses at the State University of Zanzibar in Stone Town. I went this weekend to check it out and decided it was the right choice. Zanzibar is the birthplace of Kiswahili. And the language institute is world-renown. It’s not what I set out to do but if I’ve learned nothing else here, it’s to be flexible. I don’t think it’s fair to complain about moving to Zanzibar, either. White sand beaches, ancient architecture, rich culture, island life… The financial crisis and snow plows seem a world away.
Until then, I will be volunteering in Nairobi, Kenya. The director of the Emmanuel Rescue Center asked me to join him in implementing some new programs, organizing a Christmas outing, and setting up scholarships for the boys.
My original plan:
1. Take graduate level courses in sociology at the University of Dar es Salaam
2. Produce a documentary about a project run by a Rotary club in Tanzania
3. Do freelance work for Voice of America
My current plan:
1. Take introductory level courses in Kiswahili at the State University of Zanzibar
2. Produce a promotional video for the Emmanuel Rescue Center in Kenya
3. Hope I’ll have any work when I return to Chicago.
November 25, 2008
November 24, 2008
Nairobi
You may have picked up on my travel to study ratio. It hasn’t been exactly even, as it were. This has been partly due to Rotary’s encouragement to learn outside the classroom as much as inside it. But it’s mostly due to the utter lack of organized, productive class time at the University of Dar es Salaam.
Two weeks ago, just as I departed for my Uganda/Rwanda trip, the Tanzanian undergraduate students went on strike. They were protesting the opaque system of federal loan disbursement and demanding 100% tuition coverage. Strikes in the United States usually consist of a few picket lines, chants, and the occasional scab. This strike, however, was a bit more “eventful.” Students who were not participating were dragged out of their dorm rooms and out of buses by angry protestors. Student leaders held booming rallies in lecture halls. International students were advised to be nowhere near campus. The entire campus erupted. It lasted three days. And the university’s bylaws state that classes be suspended after any strike lasting at least 3 days.
I came to learn that all local students were evicted from campus, classes were suspended indefinitely, and only foreign and graduate students would be taught. So now, after only 4 weeks of actual class time, I am preparing for finals next week. Finals, mind you, in a classroom with only foreign students.
Needless to say, this is not ideal. So Kris and I used the helter skelter class schedule to duck out of Dar once again and head to Nairobi, capital of Kenya, for some Rotarizing.
We had the good fortune of meeting some amazingly generous, hospitable, and fun people there. After attending our first Rotary meeting, we were escorted by some very kind Rotarians to all the very touristy and non-so-touristy attractions of Nairobi.
Feeding giraffes
Babysitting
The center houses 40 boys (several of whom have HIV/AIDS), puts them in school, enforces strict discipline, and turns out charming, enterprising success stories. It was hard not to fall in love with these boys.
The season of charity is upon us and I’ll use this post to pull on your heartstrings a bit. These boys need clothes, books, school supplies, toiletries, bedding… really anything and everything they would need to survive and succeed in daily life. And, since sending things to Kenya is a bit expensive, they’d also gladly accept monetary donations as well. These boys are so ambitious and hopeful, especially charged with the success of their hero, President-elect Barack Obama.
If you can, send money through the following contact:
Afretech Aid Society
7693 Garfield Dr.
Delta, B.C.
Canada V4C 4E6
afretech@dccnet.com
www.afretech.org
(1) 604.594.9154
Donations are received by Afretech either by check (made out to Afretech Aid Society with 'for ebrc' in the note line) or online via Canada Helps.
If you prefer to send items, send them to the following address:
c/o Daniel Nduati
PO Box 345 - 00502
Karen, Kenya
Also, if you have any ideas on fundraising at home, in your Rotary clubs, in your circle of friends, or whatever, please send me an email at jinna.yun@gmail.com. There is no telling how big an impact can come from something little you do.
Two weeks ago, just as I departed for my Uganda/Rwanda trip, the Tanzanian undergraduate students went on strike. They were protesting the opaque system of federal loan disbursement and demanding 100% tuition coverage. Strikes in the United States usually consist of a few picket lines, chants, and the occasional scab. This strike, however, was a bit more “eventful.” Students who were not participating were dragged out of their dorm rooms and out of buses by angry protestors. Student leaders held booming rallies in lecture halls. International students were advised to be nowhere near campus. The entire campus erupted. It lasted three days. And the university’s bylaws state that classes be suspended after any strike lasting at least 3 days.
I came to learn that all local students were evicted from campus, classes were suspended indefinitely, and only foreign and graduate students would be taught. So now, after only 4 weeks of actual class time, I am preparing for finals next week. Finals, mind you, in a classroom with only foreign students.
Needless to say, this is not ideal. So Kris and I used the helter skelter class schedule to duck out of Dar once again and head to Nairobi, capital of Kenya, for some Rotarizing.
We had the good fortune of meeting some amazingly generous, hospitable, and fun people there. After attending our first Rotary meeting, we were escorted by some very kind Rotarians to all the very touristy and non-so-touristy attractions of Nairobi.
Feeding giraffes
Babysitting
Visiting the baby elephant orphanage
Attending a 1-year-old’s birthday party
Feeding ostriches
Enjoying a home cooked meal with a Rotary family
Attending a 1-year-old’s birthday party
Feeding ostriches
Enjoying a home cooked meal with a Rotary familyEasily the most enjoyable part of the 5-day trip was my visit to the Emmanuel Center. It’s a drug rehabilitation program for young boys, ages 7 to 20, who were taken off the streets and put on the right path. The founder and director is a 27-year-old Rotarian. Dan Nduati is a rehabilitated drug addict himself and took on this ambitious vision when he was 21-years-old. He’s now responsible for hundreds of transformations.
The center houses 40 boys (several of whom have HIV/AIDS), puts them in school, enforces strict discipline, and turns out charming, enterprising success stories. It was hard not to fall in love with these boys.The season of charity is upon us and I’ll use this post to pull on your heartstrings a bit. These boys need clothes, books, school supplies, toiletries, bedding… really anything and everything they would need to survive and succeed in daily life. And, since sending things to Kenya is a bit expensive, they’d also gladly accept monetary donations as well. These boys are so ambitious and hopeful, especially charged with the success of their hero, President-elect Barack Obama.
If you can, send money through the following contact:
Afretech Aid Society
7693 Garfield Dr.
Delta, B.C.
Canada V4C 4E6
afretech@dccnet.com
www.afretech.org
(1) 604.594.9154
Donations are received by Afretech either by check (made out to Afretech Aid Society with 'for ebrc' in the note line) or online via Canada Helps.
If you prefer to send items, send them to the following address:
c/o Daniel Nduati
PO Box 345 - 00502
Karen, Kenya
Also, if you have any ideas on fundraising at home, in your Rotary clubs, in your circle of friends, or whatever, please send me an email at jinna.yun@gmail.com. There is no telling how big an impact can come from something little you do.
November 15, 2008
When in East Africa...
My friend Noelle gave me a great postcard before I left Chicago, filled with quotes about travel. One rings particularly true about my week-long trip around East Africa: "Travel is more than a seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living."
This was my first trip outside of Tanzania... and we did it in a big way.
Uganda
We drove about 40 hours through Tanzania, Kenya and finally arrived in Kampala, the capital of Uganda. The landscapes changed as frequently as the bus did for potty breaks. When we left on November 6, we were on the dusty streets of Dar es Salaam. When we arrived on November 7, we were surrounded by the menthol green of Uganda. Kampala is a clean, modern city with manicured roundabouts, medians and hedges. The entire city teems with color and energy. After a night of chatting with backpackers and tasting the local brew, we set off for Jinja to go white water rafting. Flipping over in class 5 rapids in the Nile River is easily the most "extreme" thing I've ever done. (Felt an urge to chug a Mountain Dew afterwards.)
Rwanda
We weren't quite ready to go home so we made an impromptu trek over to Rwanda. By this time, our passport pages were filling up with visas/bragging rights. Kigali is the capital of this French-speaking, drives on the right side of the road, phoenix from the ashes country. We visited the genocide memorial and walked out with a newfound wonder and respect for the people around us. Kigali is a labyrinth of hills and motor bikes, a place where you can see your breath at night. Plastic shopping bags, by the way, are illegal here.
And now for the audio/visual part of the post...
This was my first trip outside of Tanzania... and we did it in a big way.
Uganda
We drove about 40 hours through Tanzania, Kenya and finally arrived in Kampala, the capital of Uganda. The landscapes changed as frequently as the bus did for potty breaks. When we left on November 6, we were on the dusty streets of Dar es Salaam. When we arrived on November 7, we were surrounded by the menthol green of Uganda. Kampala is a clean, modern city with manicured roundabouts, medians and hedges. The entire city teems with color and energy. After a night of chatting with backpackers and tasting the local brew, we set off for Jinja to go white water rafting. Flipping over in class 5 rapids in the Nile River is easily the most "extreme" thing I've ever done. (Felt an urge to chug a Mountain Dew afterwards.)
Rwanda
We weren't quite ready to go home so we made an impromptu trek over to Rwanda. By this time, our passport pages were filling up with visas/bragging rights. Kigali is the capital of this French-speaking, drives on the right side of the road, phoenix from the ashes country. We visited the genocide memorial and walked out with a newfound wonder and respect for the people around us. Kigali is a labyrinth of hills and motor bikes, a place where you can see your breath at night. Plastic shopping bags, by the way, are illegal here.
And now for the audio/visual part of the post...
November 5, 2008
Gobama!
It feels strange to experience the culmination of a 2-year campaign marathon from the shores of the Indian Ocean. But, just as it was a clearly historic moment in the United States, my memories of November 5 will not soon be forgotten.
We gathered at Stephanie and David’s apartment for the long night before us. (We are now 9 hours ahead of Chicago.) After seeing the polls close on the East Coast, we took a quick nap and awoke at 4am to thunderous, torrential rains.
We flicked on Al Jazeera to see this: Obama projected to win Pennsylvania. It was clear from that point on that the junior senator from Illinois was well on his way to making history. But, without skipping a beat, just as the announcers declared Barack Obama the projected winner of the presidency, the power cut out. Stupid rain.
Wading through thigh-high waters (maybe knee-high for others), we sloshed through the sewage and trash, caught a bus, marveled at the water world around us, and then ran like mad to the US embassy where they were having an election viewing party for US citizens. We caught the last five minutes of Obama’s speech.
Since then, I’ve seen his speech in its entirety. I’ve seen McCain’s concession speech. I’ve heard journalists and pundits wax poetic about the immensity of this moment. And I’ve seen the montages of the colorful campaign trail.
Yet, I still don’t feel the weight of the news. Tanzanians are happy. I am happy. But I’m a long way from Chicago.
It’s been like watching the time trials but missing the Olympics. And now, it seems like I’ll miss the medals ceremony, too.
We gathered at Stephanie and David’s apartment for the long night before us. (We are now 9 hours ahead of Chicago.) After seeing the polls close on the East Coast, we took a quick nap and awoke at 4am to thunderous, torrential rains.We flicked on Al Jazeera to see this: Obama projected to win Pennsylvania. It was clear from that point on that the junior senator from Illinois was well on his way to making history. But, without skipping a beat, just as the announcers declared Barack Obama the projected winner of the presidency, the power cut out. Stupid rain.
Wading through thigh-high waters (maybe knee-high for others), we sloshed through the sewage and trash, caught a bus, marveled at the water world around us, and then ran like mad to the US embassy where they were having an election viewing party for US citizens. We caught the last five minutes of Obama’s speech.
Since then, I’ve seen his speech in its entirety. I’ve seen McCain’s concession speech. I’ve heard journalists and pundits wax poetic about the immensity of this moment. And I’ve seen the montages of the colorful campaign trail.
Yet, I still don’t feel the weight of the news. Tanzanians are happy. I am happy. But I’m a long way from Chicago.
It’s been like watching the time trials but missing the Olympics. And now, it seems like I’ll miss the medals ceremony, too.
October 27, 2008
Jina langu ni Jinna. My name is Name.
Absentee voting. Rotarizing. European Film Festival. Classes. Karaoke. Not much has happened since I returned from Zanzibar. But, I suppose, my life in Dar es Salaam as a student, explorer and scholarship recipient began in earnest.
Kris and I attended a meeting of the Rotary club of Dar es Salaam, part of our duties as an Ambassadorial Scholar. We made quick presentations about who we are, where we’re from, and what we’re doing in Tanzania.
We also presented at a Rotaract club sponsored “Career Development Day.” Our mission: inform 300 Tanzanian students of the nuts and bolts of our scholarship.
The European Film Festival started in Dar es Salaam, bringing a month of dozens of award-winning movies with it. Since admission is free, it’s a great way to spend some time in an air-conditioned theater. It started off with an invitation-only, dripping in champagne, rooftop party for diplomats. Frankly, I still don’t know how we got in.
Karaoke is alive and well in Africa. Bronwen and I belted out Elton John’s “Circle of Life” from The Lion King. I realize Rotary International expects me to be an ambassador of goodwill. I apologize for ignoring that mandate while on stage.
Mountains Beyond Mountains
As Julie, Bronwen and I rode for seven hours to Lushoto, we expected to step out to cool air and pretty scenery. But what we got was one of the best weekends in Tanzania.
The clean air and crisp breeze of the Usambara Mountains, cascading through the northeast of Tanzania, was a welcome change from the exhaust burdened thickness of Dar es Salaam’s sticky hot weight.
We met with our guide Amani, whose name quite appropriately means “peace.” He brought just that to our two-day, 25 km hike.
We passed by many homes like this along our hike. They’re made of mud, hardened by fire. The “newer” models have corrugated tin roofs, making a rain storm seem more like a drum solo.
Dozens and dozens of village children would run to greet us, follow our path, and ask us to take their pictures. They seem fascinated by our appearance and curious about our presence. According to our guide, many children want their picture taken so they can see what they look like. Many kids don’t have mirrors, only seeing their reflection in still water.
We passed through rainforests and pine tree plantations. We explored German trenches. We ate and slept at convents. And we got a first hand look at mountain sunsets and starry skies in Tanzania.
One of my favorite parts of the trip was our visit to a traditional healer. The woman invited us into her home to show and explain her various concoctions and methods. She even demonstrated her technique on me! She carefully applied an ointment of tree root ash and lion’s fat on certain parts of my body. Under her breath, she recited a chant or prayer, warding off illness and fatigue. She seemed delighted to have visitors, as fewer locals believe in traditional medicine.
I was sad to leave the breathtaking scenery with such friendly, inviting villagers. But glad to have seen the big wide world outside of Dar es Salaam.
New album here.
Kris and I attended a meeting of the Rotary club of Dar es Salaam, part of our duties as an Ambassadorial Scholar. We made quick presentations about who we are, where we’re from, and what we’re doing in Tanzania.
We also presented at a Rotaract club sponsored “Career Development Day.” Our mission: inform 300 Tanzanian students of the nuts and bolts of our scholarship.
The European Film Festival started in Dar es Salaam, bringing a month of dozens of award-winning movies with it. Since admission is free, it’s a great way to spend some time in an air-conditioned theater. It started off with an invitation-only, dripping in champagne, rooftop party for diplomats. Frankly, I still don’t know how we got in.
Karaoke is alive and well in Africa. Bronwen and I belted out Elton John’s “Circle of Life” from The Lion King. I realize Rotary International expects me to be an ambassador of goodwill. I apologize for ignoring that mandate while on stage.Mountains Beyond Mountains
As Julie, Bronwen and I rode for seven hours to Lushoto, we expected to step out to cool air and pretty scenery. But what we got was one of the best weekends in Tanzania.
The clean air and crisp breeze of the Usambara Mountains, cascading through the northeast of Tanzania, was a welcome change from the exhaust burdened thickness of Dar es Salaam’s sticky hot weight.We met with our guide Amani, whose name quite appropriately means “peace.” He brought just that to our two-day, 25 km hike.
We passed by many homes like this along our hike. They’re made of mud, hardened by fire. The “newer” models have corrugated tin roofs, making a rain storm seem more like a drum solo.
Dozens and dozens of village children would run to greet us, follow our path, and ask us to take their pictures. They seem fascinated by our appearance and curious about our presence. According to our guide, many children want their picture taken so they can see what they look like. Many kids don’t have mirrors, only seeing their reflection in still water.
We passed through rainforests and pine tree plantations. We explored German trenches. We ate and slept at convents. And we got a first hand look at mountain sunsets and starry skies in Tanzania.
One of my favorite parts of the trip was our visit to a traditional healer. The woman invited us into her home to show and explain her various concoctions and methods. She even demonstrated her technique on me! She carefully applied an ointment of tree root ash and lion’s fat on certain parts of my body. Under her breath, she recited a chant or prayer, warding off illness and fatigue. She seemed delighted to have visitors, as fewer locals believe in traditional medicine.
I was sad to leave the breathtaking scenery with such friendly, inviting villagers. But glad to have seen the big wide world outside of Dar es Salaam.New album here.
October 5, 2008
Zanzibar
Dar es Salaam’s proximity to paradise is a key perk to studying here. Just a 2-hour ferry ride takes you to Zanzibar, Tanzania’s island known for its spices and pristine beaches.
We started off our trip in Stone Town, the historic and “urban” area of the island.
Streets like this snake through the area. Shops selling wooden carvings, African masks, sarongs, paintings, and beaded jewelry line the way, making it very easy to get lost in the winding maze of Arabic architecture. (Fun fact: It is also the birthplace of Freddie Mercury.)
That night, we had dinner at Korodhoni market. The street is filled with vendors selling kabobs and seafood. You pick what you want to eat, bargain for a fair price, and they grill it right in front of you.
The next day, we hopped on a bus for an hour and a half ride to Kendwa Rocks on the northern tip of the island. I thought places like this only existed on postcards and the Travel Channel. It was two nights of tropical bliss.
As always, you can see more pictures here.
We started off our trip in Stone Town, the historic and “urban” area of the island.
Streets like this snake through the area. Shops selling wooden carvings, African masks, sarongs, paintings, and beaded jewelry line the way, making it very easy to get lost in the winding maze of Arabic architecture. (Fun fact: It is also the birthplace of Freddie Mercury.)
That night, we had dinner at Korodhoni market. The street is filled with vendors selling kabobs and seafood. You pick what you want to eat, bargain for a fair price, and they grill it right in front of you.
The next day, we hopped on a bus for an hour and a half ride to Kendwa Rocks on the northern tip of the island. I thought places like this only existed on postcards and the Travel Channel. It was two nights of tropical bliss.
As always, you can see more pictures here.
September 27, 2008
This weekend marks my third week in Dar es Salaam. That’s only about 10% of the total time I’ll spend here, but it already seems like I’ve been here for months. I’ve gotten some valuable Swahili vocabulary in my arsenal. I know how to get from one part of the city to another. And I’ve shared some great food with some good friends.
Classes start this Monday, or so they say. Almost every student I’ve met is equally as hesitant to say with any certainty when school will officially start. There are rumors of a professors’ strike… and hardly any departments have finalized course schedules. We were told the university pushed classes to September 29 (originally set to start on September 8) because the government hadn’t yet determined how much loan money would be given to students. So the university (and students) were left in a lurch.
This brings me to the section I’ll call “The Tanzanian Way.” It’s easy for me to now dismiss so much about my daily life here as “normal.” But it will be useful for me to remember and document these unexpected or not-so-obvious differences between here and the U.S.
Getting someone’s attention
On each daladala (bus), which are privately owned and operated, there is a driver and a money collector/”look out.” The latter’s job is to look for anyone wishing to board the bus or alert the driver that someone would like to get off the bus. He is also responsible for taking bus fare from passengers. If the “look out” wants to get the attention of a pedestrian, he makes a kissing noise. (Imagine puckering your lips and making a loud sucking sound.) And if he wants your bus fare (which is collected at any point during your trip), he jingles some change by your ear.
Correct Change
It is not uncommon for me to pay for something, wait for my change, and have the cashier or vendor give me most of it but say, “Sorry, I don’t have enough coins.” So you just have to suck it up and move on.
China! China!
So my name, Jinna, means “name” in Swahili. Haha, right? Yeah. The word “China” is also pronounced with an “e” sound, so it’s more like “Cheena.” So when I walk around a market, people will yell out “China! China!” to get my attention. Needless to say, when I first heard this, I wondered how so many people knew my name. (I should note that locals also yell out mzungu, or white person, to my friends. This is obviously a loaded word but it’s not necessarily an insult. People are just tickled that foreigners are in Tanzania, with money.)
Line cutting
The pace of life in Africa is much slower than in the Western world. That being said, there is an inordinate amount of line cutting in Dar. You would think people would be content to wait patiently in line. But I have yet to be in a line when someone hasn’t blantantly cut in front of me.
The “S” Word
Sexuality is highly taboo here, which lends itself to significant hurdles in HIV/AIDS education. But a surprising result of sexual stigmatization is the lack of physical contact, even amongst family members. Hugging or holding hands of the opposite sex is considered inappropriate. Fathers don’t kiss daughters (or sons, for that matter), even when they are small children. A brother and sister (or son and mother, etc.) wouldn’t dare sit or stand next to each other on a bus. But, friends of the same sex walk in public holding hands.
It’s a bird
Most of the university classrooms have open windows or walls that have punched-out hole designs for occasional breezes in this tropical climate. This means we share lecture halls with birds. Lots and lots of birds. (For anyone who knows about my love of birds, you’ll know how pleased I am about this.)
Stay tuned for more of “The Tanzanian Way.” Next week, I go to Zanzibar for a long holiday weekend celebrating Eid ul-Fitr, the end of Ramadan.
Classes start this Monday, or so they say. Almost every student I’ve met is equally as hesitant to say with any certainty when school will officially start. There are rumors of a professors’ strike… and hardly any departments have finalized course schedules. We were told the university pushed classes to September 29 (originally set to start on September 8) because the government hadn’t yet determined how much loan money would be given to students. So the university (and students) were left in a lurch.
This brings me to the section I’ll call “The Tanzanian Way.” It’s easy for me to now dismiss so much about my daily life here as “normal.” But it will be useful for me to remember and document these unexpected or not-so-obvious differences between here and the U.S.
Getting someone’s attention
On each daladala (bus), which are privately owned and operated, there is a driver and a money collector/”look out.” The latter’s job is to look for anyone wishing to board the bus or alert the driver that someone would like to get off the bus. He is also responsible for taking bus fare from passengers. If the “look out” wants to get the attention of a pedestrian, he makes a kissing noise. (Imagine puckering your lips and making a loud sucking sound.) And if he wants your bus fare (which is collected at any point during your trip), he jingles some change by your ear.
Correct Change
It is not uncommon for me to pay for something, wait for my change, and have the cashier or vendor give me most of it but say, “Sorry, I don’t have enough coins.” So you just have to suck it up and move on.
China! China!
So my name, Jinna, means “name” in Swahili. Haha, right? Yeah. The word “China” is also pronounced with an “e” sound, so it’s more like “Cheena.” So when I walk around a market, people will yell out “China! China!” to get my attention. Needless to say, when I first heard this, I wondered how so many people knew my name. (I should note that locals also yell out mzungu, or white person, to my friends. This is obviously a loaded word but it’s not necessarily an insult. People are just tickled that foreigners are in Tanzania, with money.)
Line cutting
The pace of life in Africa is much slower than in the Western world. That being said, there is an inordinate amount of line cutting in Dar. You would think people would be content to wait patiently in line. But I have yet to be in a line when someone hasn’t blantantly cut in front of me.
The “S” Word
Sexuality is highly taboo here, which lends itself to significant hurdles in HIV/AIDS education. But a surprising result of sexual stigmatization is the lack of physical contact, even amongst family members. Hugging or holding hands of the opposite sex is considered inappropriate. Fathers don’t kiss daughters (or sons, for that matter), even when they are small children. A brother and sister (or son and mother, etc.) wouldn’t dare sit or stand next to each other on a bus. But, friends of the same sex walk in public holding hands.
It’s a bird
Most of the university classrooms have open windows or walls that have punched-out hole designs for occasional breezes in this tropical climate. This means we share lecture halls with birds. Lots and lots of birds. (For anyone who knows about my love of birds, you’ll know how pleased I am about this.)
Stay tuned for more of “The Tanzanian Way.” Next week, I go to Zanzibar for a long holiday weekend celebrating Eid ul-Fitr, the end of Ramadan.
September 21, 2008
Safari
Say “Africa” to someone and there’s a good chance pictures of giraffes and lions flicker through the imagination. For me, those images became a reality this weekend.
Just a 4-hour bus ride outside of Dar es Salaam and you’re in a totally different world. The car honks turn to cricket chirps. The tallest structure isn’t a building but a baobab tree. And, when night falls, only the guiding light of distant bush fires and the Milky Way illuminate your path. It’s a quiet remoteness I’ve never experienced before.
A group of eight Americans, Canadians and one proud Finn -- all study abroad students at the University of Dar es Salaam -- went to Mikumi National Park, Tanzania’s fourth largest park.
We stayed on the park grounds in "tourist houses" that were unexpectedly luxurious, especially when you look just out your door and see a giraffe having breakfast (see it to the left?).
The safari was awesome, in every sense of the word. No more than 30 minutes into our ride along the dirt path, our guide spotted a pair of lions. Mating season. We were thrilled to see this National Geographic scene play out right in front of our eyes, thinking, “How can this possibly be topped?” Then, a lone male elephant crossed the road, pausing for a moment to ponder our presence.
As the day went on, we saw all kinds of animals: giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, zebras, impalas, baboons…
I don’t think there was ever a moment during the 8-hour safari that I didn’t feel like pinching myself. It’s a surreal feeling to eat a peanut butter sandwich at a watering hole… surrounded by wart hogs… and buffalo.
Safari means ‘trip’ or ‘journey’ in Swahili. And my safari in Africa, though it just started, is already filled with wonderful adventures, friendships and memories.
Just a 4-hour bus ride outside of Dar es Salaam and you’re in a totally different world. The car honks turn to cricket chirps. The tallest structure isn’t a building but a baobab tree. And, when night falls, only the guiding light of distant bush fires and the Milky Way illuminate your path. It’s a quiet remoteness I’ve never experienced before.
A group of eight Americans, Canadians and one proud Finn -- all study abroad students at the University of Dar es Salaam -- went to Mikumi National Park, Tanzania’s fourth largest park.
We stayed on the park grounds in "tourist houses" that were unexpectedly luxurious, especially when you look just out your door and see a giraffe having breakfast (see it to the left?).
The safari was awesome, in every sense of the word. No more than 30 minutes into our ride along the dirt path, our guide spotted a pair of lions. Mating season. We were thrilled to see this National Geographic scene play out right in front of our eyes, thinking, “How can this possibly be topped?” Then, a lone male elephant crossed the road, pausing for a moment to ponder our presence.
As the day went on, we saw all kinds of animals: giraffes, hippos, crocodiles, zebras, impalas, baboons…
I don’t think there was ever a moment during the 8-hour safari that I didn’t feel like pinching myself. It’s a surreal feeling to eat a peanut butter sandwich at a watering hole… surrounded by wart hogs… and buffalo.
Safari means ‘trip’ or ‘journey’ in Swahili. And my safari in Africa, though it just started, is already filled with wonderful adventures, friendships and memories.
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