It all started with a heated and chaotic negotiation with a Maasai goat herder. (You know, how most Christmas stories start.) After settling on a price, we tied up two fat white male goats, subsequently named Howard and Tom Bin Laden, and loaded them into the trunk of Daniel's yellow Toyota Scion.
Tom and Howard had one night to fill their bellies with a bit more grass at the Boys Center, just enough time for Daniel to sharpen the knives. The slaughter began on Christmas afternoon. With a quick swipe at the throat, Howard passed into goat heaven with surprising stillness. Two hours and several buckets of blood, fat and skin later: "Goat guts roasting on an open fire..."
Was it gory? Sure. Did it taste funny? A bit. Would you do it again? Hell yes.
The rest of the day was spent eating every part of the goat imaginable. A few spontaneous dance parties erupted, courtesy of the boys' impressive moves and Lil' Wayne's not-so-impressive music. Noticeably absent were Christmas carols, cold weather, and movies about Red Ryder carbine-action 200-shot range model air rifles. (You'll shoot your eye out!)
You can find (bloodless) pictures here from my time in Nairobi so far.
Spending the holidays in Africa has been a refreshing alternative to the commercially crazed chaos of the U.S. The more we have, the more we need (or think we need). But here, millions are content with just a full stomach. I'm sure that sounds trite. I probably read something to that effect before I came here. But, it's impossible to appreciate such a basic way of life without seeing it first hand. When you have so little, the little you have is everything. Family, food, education and health. And if you've got that, you're genuinely happy.
Hope everyone is enjoying their holidays, wherever you are.
December 30, 2008
December 19, 2008
The girl who cried “Zanzibar”
Season’s greetings from Nairobi, Kenya! It’s the season of family and friendship; the season of charity and renewal; and the season of ditching your Zanzibar relocation plans.
Let me back up.
I arrived in Nairobi last week to volunteer at the Emmanuel Boys Center over the holidays. But upon arriving, Daniel Nduati, a Rotarian who founded the center, told me about a new center he was opening.
The Emmanuel Youth Empowerment Center is a drop-in center as opposed to the Boys Center, which is a residential home. EYEC is located in Dagoretti, an area of Nairobi known for its butcher shops. Unfortunately, it’s also gaining notoriety as a place teeming with orphaned youth whose parents have died of HIV/AIDS.
The mission of the center is to equip street youth (boys and girls) with the skills necessary to gain employment and rise above the violent criminal and sexual activity that plagues millions of Nairobi’s youth. EYEC will provide more than 200 youth with computer training, literacy programs, workshops and counseling on HIV/AIDS, drug rehabilitation, a healthy lunch five days a week, and more.
After seeing Daniel’s vision for the youth of Nairobi, I’ve decided to stay here for the duration of my scholarship term. My role is to produce a promotional video for the center. It’s my hope that potential donors will see the video and feel compelled to give their time and/or money.
The center is still in the process of being repaired and renovated. But it’s getting done quickly thanks to the overwhelming support and enthusiasm of the Dagoretti youth. They’ve come out in droves every morning to help paint and clean. The center will be fully operational by January.
In addition to my work at the center, I’ll be attending classes at Catholic University of Eastern Africa. (Private school = no student strikes.)
In other news…
They say Christmas just isn’t Christmas in Kenya without slaughtering a goat. And making soup with its head. And drinking its blood. I wish I was joking. A few of my friends from Dar es Salaam will be joining me for what will be undoubtedly be an unforgettable Christmas with the boys from the rescue center.
(Stay tuned for my next blog post, which will announce my move to Uganda. Kidding... I hope.)
Let me back up.
I arrived in Nairobi last week to volunteer at the Emmanuel Boys Center over the holidays. But upon arriving, Daniel Nduati, a Rotarian who founded the center, told me about a new center he was opening.
The Emmanuel Youth Empowerment Center is a drop-in center as opposed to the Boys Center, which is a residential home. EYEC is located in Dagoretti, an area of Nairobi known for its butcher shops. Unfortunately, it’s also gaining notoriety as a place teeming with orphaned youth whose parents have died of HIV/AIDS.
The mission of the center is to equip street youth (boys and girls) with the skills necessary to gain employment and rise above the violent criminal and sexual activity that plagues millions of Nairobi’s youth. EYEC will provide more than 200 youth with computer training, literacy programs, workshops and counseling on HIV/AIDS, drug rehabilitation, a healthy lunch five days a week, and more.
After seeing Daniel’s vision for the youth of Nairobi, I’ve decided to stay here for the duration of my scholarship term. My role is to produce a promotional video for the center. It’s my hope that potential donors will see the video and feel compelled to give their time and/or money.
The center is still in the process of being repaired and renovated. But it’s getting done quickly thanks to the overwhelming support and enthusiasm of the Dagoretti youth. They’ve come out in droves every morning to help paint and clean. The center will be fully operational by January.
In addition to my work at the center, I’ll be attending classes at Catholic University of Eastern Africa. (Private school = no student strikes.)
In other news…
They say Christmas just isn’t Christmas in Kenya without slaughtering a goat. And making soup with its head. And drinking its blood. I wish I was joking. A few of my friends from Dar es Salaam will be joining me for what will be undoubtedly be an unforgettable Christmas with the boys from the rescue center.
(Stay tuned for my next blog post, which will announce my move to Uganda. Kidding... I hope.)
December 3, 2008
The best laid schemes o' Mice an' Men
Before I left for Africa, a Rotarian told me something I will never forget: “With the scholarship money you’ve been awarded, Rotary could’ve built five water wells in Haiti. Prove that you’re worth five water wells.”
I still have a lot to do before I can come close to proving that. But one place that is not worthy of receiving the generous scholarship money is the University of Dar es Salaam. The student strike will end, I know, but the blatant neglect the university has shown for its students, foreign or otherwise, will not. So after much soul searching, brainstorming, and Lonely Planet-ing, I have decided to move to Zanzibar for the remainder of my scholarship term.
Starting in January, I will be taking Kiswahili language courses at the State University of Zanzibar in Stone Town. I went this weekend to check it out and decided it was the right choice. Zanzibar is the birthplace of Kiswahili. And the language institute is world-renown. It’s not what I set out to do but if I’ve learned nothing else here, it’s to be flexible. I don’t think it’s fair to complain about moving to Zanzibar, either. White sand beaches, ancient architecture, rich culture, island life… The financial crisis and snow plows seem a world away.
Until then, I will be volunteering in Nairobi, Kenya. The director of the Emmanuel Rescue Center asked me to join him in implementing some new programs, organizing a Christmas outing, and setting up scholarships for the boys.
My original plan:
1. Take graduate level courses in sociology at the University of Dar es Salaam
2. Produce a documentary about a project run by a Rotary club in Tanzania
3. Do freelance work for Voice of America
My current plan:
1. Take introductory level courses in Kiswahili at the State University of Zanzibar
2. Produce a promotional video for the Emmanuel Rescue Center in Kenya
3. Hope I’ll have any work when I return to Chicago.
I still have a lot to do before I can come close to proving that. But one place that is not worthy of receiving the generous scholarship money is the University of Dar es Salaam. The student strike will end, I know, but the blatant neglect the university has shown for its students, foreign or otherwise, will not. So after much soul searching, brainstorming, and Lonely Planet-ing, I have decided to move to Zanzibar for the remainder of my scholarship term.
Starting in January, I will be taking Kiswahili language courses at the State University of Zanzibar in Stone Town. I went this weekend to check it out and decided it was the right choice. Zanzibar is the birthplace of Kiswahili. And the language institute is world-renown. It’s not what I set out to do but if I’ve learned nothing else here, it’s to be flexible. I don’t think it’s fair to complain about moving to Zanzibar, either. White sand beaches, ancient architecture, rich culture, island life… The financial crisis and snow plows seem a world away.
Until then, I will be volunteering in Nairobi, Kenya. The director of the Emmanuel Rescue Center asked me to join him in implementing some new programs, organizing a Christmas outing, and setting up scholarships for the boys.
My original plan:
1. Take graduate level courses in sociology at the University of Dar es Salaam
2. Produce a documentary about a project run by a Rotary club in Tanzania
3. Do freelance work for Voice of America
My current plan:
1. Take introductory level courses in Kiswahili at the State University of Zanzibar
2. Produce a promotional video for the Emmanuel Rescue Center in Kenya
3. Hope I’ll have any work when I return to Chicago.
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